Exploring Sanchi: Its History and Wildlife

I happened to visit Sanchi unexpectedly. While travelling to Bhopal which is a capital of Madhya Pradesh, a state in Central India,on 5th of June, I had a spare day in hand and since I had nothing better to do, I decided to pay Sanchi a visit. Sanchi is roughly 43 km from the city of Bhopal and is well-connected by frequent buses and trains. An hour’s journey and you reach Sanchi.

Welcome to Sanchi!
Welcome to Sanchi!

Sanchi has the oldest and most well preserves stupas in India. Not only stupas but there are temples, pillars and other monuments which record the origin, rise and the fall of Buddhist art and architecture in India from the period of third century BC to twelfth century AD, spanning the period of thirteen hundred years.

Sanchi is supposedly the birth place of Buddhism in India. The first stupa at Sanchi was built by the Maurya emperor Ashoka during his reign in 3rd Century BC. It was a simple structure at first, later in First century BC four ornamental torans (gateways) were added to it.

A beautiful view
A beautiful view
Stupa 1: The main stupa. It has 4 torans (gateways)
Stupa 1: The main stupa. It has 4 torans (gateways)
Backside of one of the torans (gateways)
Backside of one of the torans (gateways)
Toran of Stupa 1
Toran of Stupa 1
Stupa 1 and 3 have staircases to climb up for circumabulation  (pradakshina)
Stupa 1 and 3 have staircases to climb up for circumabulation (pradakshina)
carvings on one of the entrance of stupa 1
carvings on one of the entrance of stupa 1
Buddha statue in Stupa 1
Buddha statue in Stupa 1
Stupa 1 seen from the back side
Stupa 1 seen from the back side

Over the period of time, many more structures were added. Today at Sanchi, we can see 27 monuments which include stupas, temples, pillars, begging bowl, monasteries, shrines, etc.

Remains of a monastery
Remains of a monastery
Pillars
Pillars
One of the temples
One of the temples
Stupa 3 and its toran
Stupa 3 and its toran

Sanchi is nested on a hill top of Raisen district of Madhya Pradesh. Being protected by the Archaeological Survey of India, wildlife flourishes here. I saw a variety of insects, birds, amphibians, reptiles and mammals during my visit to Sanchi. In birds, most notable sighting was of Crested bunting male and female feeding on the lawn in front of the Stupa 1, Brown rock chats on the stone structures, woodpeckers pecking on the grounds, sunbirds, tailor birds, Brahminy myna, Black drongo and Indian and Oriental Magpie robins. Common garden lizards were strutting in the lawns, on trees and on sheltered rocks. Butterflies like lemon pansy, blue pansy, yellows, blues, tailed jays were fluttering around and were a delight to watch. But my most cherished sighting was so unexpected that I almost squealed in delight enough to startle the animal.

A terrible picture of Crested bunting as a record shot
A terrible picture of Crested bunting as a record shot
Chilled out Brown rock chats who let me come so close to them that I could take good picture even with my mobile!
Chilled out Brown rock chats who let me come so close to them that I could take good picture even with my mobile!
Honeycomb
Honeycomb

While walking from the stupa 1 to Stupa 2, one has to climb down to a lower altitude. The stairs are made of stones surrounded by huge rocks and shrubbery. At the stupa 2, there is an artificial pond from where the pipelines carry the water to stupa 1. One of the pipelines was leaking a little and water was dripping out where many birds had come to drink water which had accumulated on the ground. I, being severely dehydrated from the hot summer of central India and temperatures flaring to 43 degrees and giving the feel of 47 degrees, went to this water and gave myself a good splash on face. Here is when I saw a movement and saw something like a mongoose hiding and watching me, equally surprised at my presence. I almost passed it thinking it was a common mongoose, but had to almost jump in excitement after putting back my spectacles on seeing that it was a ruddy mongoose! I had read a lot about ruddy mongoose and seen it in pictures and always wanted to see one myself, but this encounter took me by a complete surprise. I saw the mongoose a lot of times during my climb down to the stupa 2, but unfortunately, I wasn’t carrying my camera with me and mobile camera’s zoom wasn’t enough for the mongoose. But the sight of that beautiful mongoose with its tail tip pointing to sky as if an antenna will remain etched in my memory forever.

The habitat where I spotted Ruddy mongoose
The habitat where I spotted Ruddy mongoose
A view from stupa 2 showing the path that leads to it and the greenery nearby
A view from stupa 2 showing the path that leads to it and the greenery nearby
Path leading to Stupa 2
Path leading to Stupa 2

After climbing down to stupa 2, I dipped my feet in the pond, sat there observing many damselflies, dragonflies and skittering frogs that inhabited the pond and the lush green vegetation around it provided the much need cool air. That was the last monument to be seen at the place and after having a nice hot and strong coffee, I said good bye to Sanchi.

Stupa 2
Stupa 2
On the entrance of stupa 2
On the entrance of stupa 2
Stupa 2
Stupa 2
A view from where I was sitting
A view from where I was sitting
A stray dog cooling himself in the pond water
A stray dog cooling himself in the pond water
Enjoying the activity of dragonflies near the pond
Enjoying the activity of dragonflies near the pond

Buddhism speaks a lot about non-violence, conserving environment and wildlife and about not harming the animals. The unplanned visit brought much-needed peace to my mind and the sightings of wildlife made one of the best ‘World Environment Day’s I had!

Mango trees are done fruiting by now. New leaves are budding as monsoon is on the horizon. There is a story of magical mango tree in buddhism. I saw this one in what looked like a mango orchard outside the stupa campus.
Mango trees are done fruiting by now. New leaves are budding as monsoon is on the horizon.
There is a story of magical mango tree in buddhism. I saw this one in what looked like a mango orchard outside the stupa campus.
Good bye Sanchi. Going back to Bhopal
Good bye Sanchi. Going back to Bhopal

Udaipur in Photographs: Day 2

Enjoy the Udaipur in many photos of its various delightful locales it has to offer. Drenched in history, culture and andcient traditions, Udaipur is one of the most favoured tourist destinations in India.

We saw a part of Udaipur in my previous post. The second day at Udaipur was quite eventful as well.

We woke up leisurely and went to Govinda’s cafe for breakfast. It is a small and humble cafeteria serving breakfast near Lalghat guest house. After having filling breakfast of two cheese omelette, one plain omelette, a banana pancake (super delicious and must try!), two ginger-lemon-honey tea and one masala chai between three of us, we roamed the streets and shopped for colourful and bright ethnic clothes.

Colourful clothes on sale at one of the road-side shop.
Colourful clothes on sale at one of the road-side shop.
A street near the city palace of Udaipur
A street near the city palace of Udaipur

After shopping, we had lunch at Rainbow multi-cuisine restaurant which serves delicious ker sangri- a typical Rajasthani spicy curry made of beans and berries which are unique to Rajasthan. We relaxed a bit and then my friends left for Ahmedabad while I carried on with my Udaipur sight-seeing.

I visited Bagore ki haveli in the afternoon. It is a beautiful haveli built in 18th century by Amir Chand Badwa, Prime Minister of the Mewar State. It has more than 100 rooms and now it has been converted into a museum where there are various artifacts at display, turban museum, paintings and musical instruments open to public display.

Entry of the Gangour ghat  and the entry of the Bagore ki haveli next to it.
Entry of the Gangour ghat and the entry of the Bagore ki haveli next to it.
Bagore ki haveli entrance
Bagore ki haveli entrance
Prince Charming. Any takers?
Prince Charming. Any takers?
Puppet museum in Bagore ki haveli.
Puppet museum in Bagore ki haveli.

As I was walking across the corridor of the haveli, I met a painter named Pinku. I saw him painting and was totally amazed at his skill in producing smallest details. Very creative, he drew a nice art on my thumb nail.

Pinku's gift for appreciating his paintings. So humble!
Pinku’s gift for appreciating his paintings. So humble!
Beautiful glass window in one of the rooms of the haveli.
Beautiful glass window in one of the rooms of the haveli.
Learning to take selfie!
Learning to take selfie!
For public display at the haveli
For public display at the haveli
Disco lights, or are they?
Disco lights, or are they?
Corridors
Corridors
One of the exhibit of turban museum. Turban museum has exhibits of different types of turbans worn by varied castes, sects and communities of the states of Gujarat, Rajasthan and Maharashtra
One of the exhibits of turban museum. Turban museum has exhibits of different types of turbans worn by varied castes, sects and communities of the states of Gujarat, Rajasthan and Maharashtra
Terrace of the haveli
Terrace of the haveli
Haveli's compound
Haveli’s compound
Gangour ghat een from the terrace of the haveli
Gangour ghat seen from the terrace of the haveli

After spending good two and half hours at the haveli,. I went and had green tea at Cafe Edelweiss. I was disappointed by the ticket vendor when he told me the city palace wasnt open to public that day because of a wedding going on. But I was free to roam on the grounds outside the palace. So I took that chance and walked about the grounds.

City palace
City palace
The entry of the city palace
The entry of the city palace

Evening was pleasant and windy. After having dinner at Rainbow restaurant, I went off to bed. Next day I was to leave for Mount Abu early morning.

Udaipur is a beautiful city and traveller friendly. It has no pompous air around it and one can easily lounge about on her own. The city has perfect mix of places for travellers around the world. Lakes, forts, palaces, shopping places, great places to eat, etc. Two days aren’t quite enough and I am hoping to return here someday again and explore Sajjangarh wildlife sanctuary, Saheliyo ki badi, city palace and other places that Udaipur has to offer. But whether you tick off all the places in Udaipur or you just spend time dipping your feet in Gangour ghat, it is worth it.

An art in My espresso love cafe
An art in My espresso love cafe

This post is dedicated to my dear friend Manjula, who left us for heavenly abode. She was very fond of travelling and the last pictures and stories we shared was of this Udaipur trip. You will be sorely missed, friend.

Udaipur in Photographs: Day 1

Enjoy the Udaipur in many photos of its various delightful locales it has to offer. Drenched in history, culture and andcient traditions, Udaipur is one of the most favoured tourist destinations in India.

I was to bid Adieu to Ahmedabad, the city of Gujarat where I spent my past three and half years. Ahmedabad has many tourist destinations close by and Udaipur is one of them. Since I had never been there, I decided to travel to Udaipur before I leave Ahmedabad with two other friends. Just 261 km from Ahmedabad, it hardly takes 5 hours, an overnight journey by a sleeper bus and you are almost there. I left for Udaipur by a sleeper bus on the night of 1st April 2015.

The view from the inside of the bus that took me to Udaipur
The view from the inside of the bus that took me to Udaipur

I reached the next morning on 2nd of April 2015 and joined two of my friends who had already reached the previous day. We stayed at Lalghat Guest House, a comfortable hotel. You get a range of staying options, from a small single room with shared toilets (which are super clean) to lake-view room with a huge balcony all at a very affordable price.

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A view from the terrace of the Lalghat guest house
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Lounge area at Lalghat guest house.

On the first day, we visited the Jagdish temple, dipped our feet and spent a lazy morning at Gangour ghat, had breakfast at Café Edelweiss and lunch at Lotus Café. Café Edelweiss is a nice cozy place to eat. The German Bakery in the café serves nice pastries, baked goodies and sweets.

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The first place we visited in Udaipur. The Jagdish temple.
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Jagdish temple was constructed by Maharaja Jagat Singh the first in 1651.
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The temple is carved out from sandstones
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The carvings at the temple show life of many Gods and Goddesses
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Women going about their business while the tourists flock at Gangour ghat at Pichola lake
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This platform at Gangour ghat is used for performances during Gangour festival. Everyday morning, people come and feed the pigeons. Parrots and cows join them too occasionally.

After having lunch, we visited monsoon palace in the afternoon. The monsoon palace is also known as Sajjangarh palace and was named after Maharaja Sajjan Singh of Mewar dynasty who built the palace in 1884. It is situated high in the Aravalli hills at the height of 932.6 MSL. Here you will come across a neglected board which informs us of the amazing architectural skill of the architects of those days in conservation of water.

IMG_650064 As we entered the palace, we were greeted by a pleasant sight of a young kitten suckling on an old Labrador mother.

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The cat baby and dog mother. The cat though believed that he was dog and refused to clean himself as cats usually do. Seen at Monsoon palace.
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The monsoon palace at Sajjangadh once housed the Royals. Now it houses the nature. Swallow and wasp nests and beehive.
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Scenic view from the monsoon palace
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Sprawling city of Udaipur seen from the monsoon palace
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A view from the balcony of the monsoon palace
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Enjoying the serenity of the place. It was super windy!

We then hogged at an old sweet mart in the town. People travelling to Udaipur, do not miss moong dal kachori, pyaaz kachori, mirchi pakora and sweets at JMB (Jagdish Mishtan Bhandar) sweet shop.

Evening was spent watching a traditional dance and music performance at Bagore ki Haveli, located next to Gangour ghat. Everyday skilled artists perform from 7 PM onwards. The show is open to all after paying a minimal fee.

Very cool puppetry performance! Brought back lot of childhood memories.
Very cool puppetry performance! Brought back lot of childhood memories.
Women performing dance which women of the earlier days performed doing their day-to-day chores. Quite talented women of those days!
Women performing dance which women of the earlier days performed doing their day-to-day chores. Quite talented women of those days!
This 68 year old lady performed a dying form of dance. Earlier, women had to fetch water from very faraway places. They kept themselves entertained by various dances and songs.
This 68-year-old lady performed a form of dance which is not performed by local ladies anymore. Earlier, women had to fetch water from very faraway places. They kept themselves entertained by various dances and songs.

After dipping our feet in the cool waters of Gangaur ghat and relaxing for a while, we had dinner at hotel Lake View, which true to its name, has a beautiful lake view. One can watch the serene lake waters and have dinner. We retired to bed after a busy yet interesting first day at Udaipur.

I shall share the interesting events of the second day in the upcoming post. Stay tuned!

Update: Udaipur in Photographs: Day 2 can be viewed here.