A tale of Hornbills

Sighting the Malabar Grey Hornbill family from my balcony

I have always maintained that hornbills are one of the coolest birds. Huge size, beautiful beaks, graceful appearance; and the males take on an awesome parental care responsibility! All you bird nerds must be knowing that it’s hard to beat a hornbill dad in the ‘Best Dad Ever’ competition. Because, when the hornbill couple decide to have a chick (or two), they find a suitable tree hollow, the male locks up the female in the hollow (now hold your horses before you start marking this as domestic abuse!), plasters the tree hollow with mud and faeces till only the beak of the female has room to come out. This, my friends, is to be their nest. The female lays eggs in this hollow, nurtures and protects the chick(s) while the male provides for the female and then the chick. Such a nest is made to protect the female and the chick from predators! While I can go on and on about hornbills, I have a story to tell today, so to know more about these amazing birds, I will direct you to this very awesome comic by Green Humour (Rohan Chakravaty) on the hornbills.

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The stream behind my house
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A small coconut plantation seen from the balcony

To study the herpetofauna (reptiles and amphibians) of the Tillari region in northern Western Ghats, I moved to the border of Goa-Maharashtra in a small village called Maneri. Here I stay close to my field site. My house is located near a beautiful stream and there is a small coconut plantation right behind my house. Standing in my balcony I can see this mesmerizing site and even do birdwatching from here.

Since I moved here, a Malabar Grey Hornbill (Ocyceros griseus) couple has been visiting me every few days. Sometimes they would wake me up in the morning by pecking at the window (they do this because the windows are reflective and lot of birds get confused seeing their own reflection), other times they would just cackle (a call of the hornbill is called cackle) from the coconut tree perch outside the balcony.

Few months ago, (precisely from February end), I stopped seeing the female here. The male came infrequently but alone. I knew it was hornbill breeding season and I believed they must be nesting. Even then I worried for them. Lot of plantations near my house are being cut and ‘developed’ into buildings. I worried our hornbill couple might succumb to this developmental activities.

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I had a camera of a friend for a few days and managed to click this picture of the male of Malabar Grey Hornbill during the time he used to come alone

But today morning I woke up to a hornbill chorus! I saw the male cackling outside my window. I slowly came close to the window. I heard two distinct cackles so I was looking for another hornbill and then slowly the female jumped up from the back frond of the coconut tree and joined her mate. It seemed they were announcing something, and while I looked at them, a head popped up from behind and I gaped at that because voilà! It was a chick! A juvenile little Malabar Grey hornbill! I watched all three of them cackle with tears of joy rolling down my cheeks. For about half an hour they sat there cackling, preening and the chick going on eating something.

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The male on the left and the female on the right

 

 

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See if you can locate all of three of them in this picture! This image is taken from my mobile from a closed window and hence this poor quality.

In the above video, notice a small head popping in the end!

I have been watching this couple and now after many months of not seeing the female, having million different worries about them, and then seeing them like this, is one of the most wonderful sights of my life! I had no idea how much I was invested in this couple until this happened. This, in my opinion, is the best way to wake up. Oh, What a beautiful Sunday morning! 🙂

Exploring Sanchi: Its History and Wildlife

I happened to visit Sanchi unexpectedly. While travelling to Bhopal which is a capital of Madhya Pradesh, a state in Central India,on 5th of June, I had a spare day in hand and since I had nothing better to do, I decided to pay Sanchi a visit. Sanchi is roughly 43 km from the city of Bhopal and is well-connected by frequent buses and trains. An hour’s journey and you reach Sanchi.

Welcome to Sanchi!
Welcome to Sanchi!

Sanchi has the oldest and most well preserves stupas in India. Not only stupas but there are temples, pillars and other monuments which record the origin, rise and the fall of Buddhist art and architecture in India from the period of third century BC to twelfth century AD, spanning the period of thirteen hundred years.

Sanchi is supposedly the birth place of Buddhism in India. The first stupa at Sanchi was built by the Maurya emperor Ashoka during his reign in 3rd Century BC. It was a simple structure at first, later in First century BC four ornamental torans (gateways) were added to it.

A beautiful view
A beautiful view
Stupa 1: The main stupa. It has 4 torans (gateways)
Stupa 1: The main stupa. It has 4 torans (gateways)
Backside of one of the torans (gateways)
Backside of one of the torans (gateways)
Toran of Stupa 1
Toran of Stupa 1
Stupa 1 and 3 have staircases to climb up for circumabulation  (pradakshina)
Stupa 1 and 3 have staircases to climb up for circumabulation (pradakshina)
carvings on one of the entrance of stupa 1
carvings on one of the entrance of stupa 1
Buddha statue in Stupa 1
Buddha statue in Stupa 1
Stupa 1 seen from the back side
Stupa 1 seen from the back side

Over the period of time, many more structures were added. Today at Sanchi, we can see 27 monuments which include stupas, temples, pillars, begging bowl, monasteries, shrines, etc.

Remains of a monastery
Remains of a monastery
Pillars
Pillars
One of the temples
One of the temples
Stupa 3 and its toran
Stupa 3 and its toran

Sanchi is nested on a hill top of Raisen district of Madhya Pradesh. Being protected by the Archaeological Survey of India, wildlife flourishes here. I saw a variety of insects, birds, amphibians, reptiles and mammals during my visit to Sanchi. In birds, most notable sighting was of Crested bunting male and female feeding on the lawn in front of the Stupa 1, Brown rock chats on the stone structures, woodpeckers pecking on the grounds, sunbirds, tailor birds, Brahminy myna, Black drongo and Indian and Oriental Magpie robins. Common garden lizards were strutting in the lawns, on trees and on sheltered rocks. Butterflies like lemon pansy, blue pansy, yellows, blues, tailed jays were fluttering around and were a delight to watch. But my most cherished sighting was so unexpected that I almost squealed in delight enough to startle the animal.

A terrible picture of Crested bunting as a record shot
A terrible picture of Crested bunting as a record shot
Chilled out Brown rock chats who let me come so close to them that I could take good picture even with my mobile!
Chilled out Brown rock chats who let me come so close to them that I could take good picture even with my mobile!
Honeycomb
Honeycomb

While walking from the stupa 1 to Stupa 2, one has to climb down to a lower altitude. The stairs are made of stones surrounded by huge rocks and shrubbery. At the stupa 2, there is an artificial pond from where the pipelines carry the water to stupa 1. One of the pipelines was leaking a little and water was dripping out where many birds had come to drink water which had accumulated on the ground. I, being severely dehydrated from the hot summer of central India and temperatures flaring to 43 degrees and giving the feel of 47 degrees, went to this water and gave myself a good splash on face. Here is when I saw a movement and saw something like a mongoose hiding and watching me, equally surprised at my presence. I almost passed it thinking it was a common mongoose, but had to almost jump in excitement after putting back my spectacles on seeing that it was a ruddy mongoose! I had read a lot about ruddy mongoose and seen it in pictures and always wanted to see one myself, but this encounter took me by a complete surprise. I saw the mongoose a lot of times during my climb down to the stupa 2, but unfortunately, I wasn’t carrying my camera with me and mobile camera’s zoom wasn’t enough for the mongoose. But the sight of that beautiful mongoose with its tail tip pointing to sky as if an antenna will remain etched in my memory forever.

The habitat where I spotted Ruddy mongoose
The habitat where I spotted Ruddy mongoose
A view from stupa 2 showing the path that leads to it and the greenery nearby
A view from stupa 2 showing the path that leads to it and the greenery nearby
Path leading to Stupa 2
Path leading to Stupa 2

After climbing down to stupa 2, I dipped my feet in the pond, sat there observing many damselflies, dragonflies and skittering frogs that inhabited the pond and the lush green vegetation around it provided the much need cool air. That was the last monument to be seen at the place and after having a nice hot and strong coffee, I said good bye to Sanchi.

Stupa 2
Stupa 2
On the entrance of stupa 2
On the entrance of stupa 2
Stupa 2
Stupa 2
A view from where I was sitting
A view from where I was sitting
A stray dog cooling himself in the pond water
A stray dog cooling himself in the pond water
Enjoying the activity of dragonflies near the pond
Enjoying the activity of dragonflies near the pond

Buddhism speaks a lot about non-violence, conserving environment and wildlife and about not harming the animals. The unplanned visit brought much-needed peace to my mind and the sightings of wildlife made one of the best ‘World Environment Day’s I had!

Mango trees are done fruiting by now. New leaves are budding as monsoon is on the horizon. There is a story of magical mango tree in buddhism. I saw this one in what looked like a mango orchard outside the stupa campus.
Mango trees are done fruiting by now. New leaves are budding as monsoon is on the horizon.
There is a story of magical mango tree in buddhism. I saw this one in what looked like a mango orchard outside the stupa campus.
Good bye Sanchi. Going back to Bhopal
Good bye Sanchi. Going back to Bhopal